Prague, March 2023
Olya and I went to Prague for a couple of days, below are a few short notable things from that trip.
Transport
The first thing I want to mention is not about Czech Republic but about Germany. I probably won’t ever stop marvelling at how terrible the railway system works here. The information system in Germany’s railway stations tells you exactly in which section of the platform to wait in order to get the correct carriage. Very convenient! Except the cases when the train arrives in reverse order and you have to run from one end of the platform to the other in 2 minutes before the train departs. No carriage with the number on your ticket? Well, sometimes it happens, passengers will somehow sort it out. You have bought two tickets for neighbouring seats, but the train with a different carriage arrives and now you are sitting across the aisle four rows from each other. Who cares?
Cities
The second thing, which was really highlighted to me, is not about Prague, but about Berlin. Berlin is, without exaggeration, — the dirtiest city in Europe I’ve ever been to, whereas Prague, at least its centre, is one of the cleanest cities. In Berlin, you slowly get used to the trash, cigarette butts and other traces of human life scattered everywhere, but it is especially noticeable after you have travelled to other European cities.
Food
I spent quite a lot of time in Prague in 2014 and 2017, therefore this time we didn’t do much sightseeing (though, apparently, we went to Charles Bridge and Staroměstské náměstí) and mostly focused on the local cuisine. The most popular local meal is a pork knee but its disadvantage is that it has almost the same taste everywhere. However, pork ribs have a specific authentic recipe in each restaurant. The number 1 pork ribs, in my personal opinion, are cooked in the restaurant Lavička. They are marinated in a honey sauce and served with horseradish, barbecue sauce and crispy croutons. Delicious caramelised crust, soft tender meat that separates easily from the bone… mmm… ich mag das. You should eat this meal oooonly with your hands, it’s muuuch tastier in this way :)
The first time I tasted these ribs in this place was during my first visit to Prague 9 years ago and since then the taste hasn’t changed a bit. But it’s times like these when you don’t want there to be any changes.
Despite the fact that pork knees have relatively the same taste in all places, here I also have my own favourite place from 2014, it’s the restaurant U Balbínů. Here they serve this meal with pickled onions and cucumbers. Pork meat, to my taste, is too fatty and the pickles here create a perfect balance: on the one hand they suppress this sticky fatty taste left in your mouth by the meat, but on the other hand the meat eliminates the acidity created by the pickles, in case you ate too many of them. The knee itself here is literally enormous, it may easily weigh more than 1 kilogram, so, it’s safe to order for two.
To add to that, when talking about local food it would be a crime not to mention the Wenceslas sausage — a hot-dog in which they use a chopped meat sausage instead of regular one. Yummy. Earlier, in 2014, in Prague’s downtown there were plenty of kiosks where such hot-dogs were served. These days, for some reason, they’ve been removed and you now can only find Wenceslas sausages in a few small restaurants where this street food is to go.
Currency exchange
In 2014 in Prague’s downtown there was an obscenely large number of currency exchange kiosks with predatory Euro to Czech Krone exchange rates. Now they also exist, but their number has reduced significantly, I stumbled upon only 2 of these, where the exchange rate was about 16 Krones to 1 Euro whereas the official exchange rate is about 23. The fact that the number of such scummy exchangers has been reduced is a big advantage, but tourists still have to be careful.
Massage
In Prague’s downtown there are still a lot of Thai massage salons with prices starting from 9.99 Euros per session. I can’t imagine what kind of service they provide for this price, highly unlikely to be anything valuable. Apart from such fishy salons you can find those where a massage costs more or less an adequate amount of money. For example, in 5 minutes by foot from the Wenceslas Square (in other words, the heart of the city) an hour of a good Thai oil-massage costs 1000-1200 Krones (50-60 Euros) and in the salon Leela, 4-5 tram-stops from the downtown, 700-800 Krones. By the way, from the 2014 prices Leela’s have remained almost the same.
Trip to Belgrade and Sarajevo in December 2022
I ate my first pljeskavica when I was 27 years old. It was in 2008, my friend Yurets and I walked into a simple street-food kiosk near the Savelovskiy train station in Moscow. That kiosk was owned by a real Serbian woman, who was not only a chef but also a cashier and a waitress. Pljeskavica is a traditional part of Serbian cuisine. It looked similar to a hot dog or burger: a puffy pork and beef patty, that was cooked right in front of us over an open fire, in a freshly baked bun with either onion or garlic sauce that perfectly complemented the taste of the meat. At that time I remembered this food as the best street food I had ever tasted in my life. I never ate this pljeskavica again; I changed my job and this place became too far away for me, and then this kiosk went out of business.
I can’t say that since then I’ve been fanatically hunting for the place where I can taste exactly that pljeskavica from 2008, but I order this meal every chance I get. The first disappointment was that the original pljeskavica served in a restaurant is just the patty, but the bun is an extra added to the street-food version of this meal. The sauce I remembered is also not a traditional companion to the meat but a speciality of that first eatery. I tasted various pljeskavicas in Russia in several restaurants and street-food kiosks but none of them was right; not the same fresh and puffy bun, not the same patty and the completely wrong sauce.
And so, now in December 2022, I decided to take a trip to the Balkans. In terms of the weather, it’s far from the best time to visit the Balkan Peninsula, but there were three reasons why it wasn’t so important. Firstly, I had to take a vacation before the end of the year (otherwise, by German laws, it would simply burn). Secondly, I got the chance to see my old friends who recently relocated to Belgrade. And finally, and perhaps most importantly, I got the chance to taste a traditional pljeskavica cooked by authentic Serbian chefs. This gave me some hope that I would find my ideal pljeskavica like the one from 2008.
The first stop on my trip was Belgrade, then I flew to Sarajevo and finally returned to Berlin with another overnight stop in Belgrade. In my original route I also had a stop in Tirana, Albania’s capital, but AirSerbia changed their flight schedule shortly before my trip started and this change made it impossible for me to get to Albania this time. I’ll share my impressions about the cities later, but for now, I’ll continue my story about hunting for the perfect pljeskavica.